Linden Staub featured in Harper's Bazaar UK #Empowered

Linden Staub featured in Harper's Bazaar UK #Empowered

Our feature in Harper's Bazaar UK ~

The maltreatment of fashion models is a hotly contested industry issue right now. Last season, Paris Fashion Week was overshadowed by claims that Balenciaga's casting agency had subjected its models to "sadistic and cruel" treatment.

The brand swiftly fired the company, which has thus far denied any ill-doing, but not before James Scully's allegations had gone viral. The veteran casting director asserted that 150 models had been made to wait in a dark stairwell for hours while a pair of casting director ate their lunch, leaving the young women "traumatised".

"In their usual fashion they shut the door, went to lunch and turned off the lights to the stairs leaving every girl with only the lights of their phones to see," wrote Scully on Instagram. "Not only was this sadistic and cruel it was dangerous and left more than a few of the girls I spoke with traumatised."

It's not an isolated incident – the poor treatment of young models is well known within industry circles. Jourdan Dunn has repeatedly spoken out about racism she's faced at the hands of casting directors, while Edie Campbell said earlier this year that she's seen "a lot of upsetting things. I've seen girls be told to run laps around the studio. It's a cattle market." In April, model Victoire Dauxerre said she didn't think it was possible to be a successful fashion model without having an eating disorder. Contrary to popular belief, most models are not indulged divas – most are young, sometimes 15 or 16, and are working in a country far from home. It's a lonely, often poorly paid existence where they are treated as cattle.

"Belittlement, exploitation and mistreatment is daily"

But times are changing. This month, luxury conglomerates LVMH and Kering agreed to a pledge whereby they promised not to use size zero women or anyone under the age of 16 to model their clothes. The charter pledged to make a dedicated psychologist or therapist available during working time and stipulated that models will also have to present a valid medical certificate to prove that they are fit for work.

Then there's the launch of an independent agency that wants to revolutionise the way models are treated. Linden Staub was created by two former model bookers Tara Davies and Esther Kinnear-Derungs in March last year, after they became disillusioned with the way in which their former agency treated its clients. Although they won't divulge the name of their previous employer, they're happy to explain where it went wrong.

"It's not always the scandalous breaches of human rights that are reported in the mainstream press," says Davies. "It can be as small as a model not understanding why she should dress a certain way for a certain casting, clients discussing models in front of them as though they aren't present or don't understand, not understanding how their account works or no one explaining to them. Belittlement, exploitation and mistreatment is daily."

Linden Staub's business model is unique in two ways. Its first premise is that it's a mother agency in a main market, which means it doesn't take models on placement from other agencies. This gives the founders the opportunity to truly invest in its clients' careers without having to consider the objectives of other agencies. The other key policy is to pay its models the day after a job – a transformative move given that a lot of models end up waiting months for a pay check to come through.

"The model has done the job, so we chase up the money," explains Kinnear-Derungs. "She has done her bit, so as her agency, we do ours. In a nutshell, we don't see models as a business commodity."

Aside from its next day payment policy, the agency also offers an accounting demonstration to its clients when they first start making money to help them better understand how to work their finances as a self-employed adult. The founders also operate a 100 percent transparency philosophy whereby its models are able to talk to them about anything, regardless of how challenging or embarrassing.

"We treat our models like humans not as products"

"In general, we treat our models like humans not as products," says Davies. "Does this seem like an extreme statement? Sure, but anyone who has been in the industry for a while knows that the opposite can often be the reality. We offer our girls full support however they need it. This can be emotional support, financial support or business support."

So far, Linden Staub's formula has paid off – its models have worked for Vivienne Westwood, Burberry, Gucci, Ralph Lauren, Dolce & Gabbana and Michael Kors. The agency's overriding goal is to empower their clients and make sure that they're utilising the opportunities that the profession offers in all aspects of life, during and after modelling.

"Often, models' intellect and education are underestimated as it is not considered an academic vocation, people look down upon them," says Davies. "On a larger scale, there are a lot of egos in the fashion industry; people like to exert their power and, sadly, this is often negatively onto others."

The tide could well be changing for models, and it can't come soon enough.



Female Empowerment [news]

Ariana by Daniela Gerosa [stories]

Chiara by Markus Lambert [stories]

London by Steve Read [stories]

Catherine by Adam Hoskins [stories]

Charlee by David Willis [stories]

Imogen by Lucas Suchorab [stories]

Maxim for Paper Magazine [news]

Amber for Cubitts [stories]

Passion by Petros Poyiatgi [stories]

Jess by El Saiapina [stories]

Elisa by Lucas Suchorab [stories]

Jessica by Milos Nasio [stories]

Jessica by Sam Gold [stories]

Jessica by Antonio Ysursa [stories]

Lizaveta for Vogue Arabia [stories]

Maxim for Gucci [news]

London by Tom Mitchell [stories]

Kaya by Slywia Szyplik [stories]

Charlotte by Jakub Koziel [stories]

Kaya by Ashton Hugh [stories]

Millie by Lucas Suchorab [stories]

Arisa for Mastered Live [stories]

Pia for Dazed Magazine [stories]

Finn for Maison Margiela [stories]

Charlee by Jakub Koziel [stories]

Finn for Miu Miu Resort [stories]

Klara by Ashton Hugh [stories]

Camilla by Billy Heis [stories]

Finn for Hunger TV [news]

Pia for Allure [stories]

Kiana Polaroids [polaroids]

Vlada for Harper's Bazaar China [stories]

Finn by Oscar Lindqvist [stories]

Pia Priewe Polaroids [polaroids]

Josephin by Catherine Harbour [stories]

Finn for W Magazine [stories]

Brogan x Kevin Germanier AW18 Campaign [stories]

London by Ashton Hugh [stories]

Emilia by Catherine Harbour [stories]

Magda for L'Officiel Vietnam [stories]

Linden Staub x Irish Tatler [stories]

Lizaveta for Lovebite Magazine [stories]

Kiana for Irish Tatler [stories]

Polaroids with Jennifer Koch [polaroids]

Kiana by Kostas Stavropoulos [stories]

Maxim for the Evening Standard [news]

Emilia by Isabella Lombardini [stories]

Erin by Jakub Koziel [stories]

Maxim for Gay Times Magazine [stories]

Vanessa Polaroids [polaroids]

Catherine Neilson Polaroids #BackInTown [polaroids]

Lou for Manning Cartell [stories]

Linden Staub celebrates 2nd Anniversary [news]

Camila by Catherine Harbour [stories]

Lou for The MECCA Memo [news]

Chloe Polaroids [polaroids]

Esther Kinnear-Derungs for Deutschland Radio [news]

Dasha by Lena Melnik [stories]

Pia for Erika Cavallini [stories]

Chloe by Ashton Hugh [stories]

Pia 27.03.2018 [instagram]

Linden Staub x Who What Wear UK [news]

Magda for British GQ Style [stories]

Living in My Skin: 8 People Reveal Why They Love Their Freckles, Moles, and More ~ Pia x Allure [news]

Maxim Magnus at the Commonwealth Fashion Exchange Fashion 4 Development Afternoon Tea [news]

Camila by Isabella Lombardini [stories]

Erin by Anastasia Fua [stories]

Lizaveta for Hunger Magazine [stories]

Open Wide - The latest book by best selling author Melissa Ambrosini! [news]

"This model agency just became the first to ban fur" ~ Linden Staub x i-D Magazine [news]

Linden Staub Adopts Fur-Free Policy [news]

Introducing ~ Melissa Ambrosini [polaroids]

Milli by Lucas Suchorab [stories]

Jessica & Lizaveta for Stella McCartney AW18 Digital Campaign [news]

Georgia SF Polaroids [polaroids]

Dasha for Saks Spring Fashion Book [stories]

Pia for Drawer [stories]

Charlotte Pallister x Tom Ford Dazed [polaroids]

Yana for VOGUE Italia Online [stories]

Chloe by Jakub koziel [stories]

Lydia Atchison Polaroids [polaroids]

“The Real Mother Agency” ~ Frankfurter Allgemeine Sonntagszeitung [news]

Maxim: Nike x Zalando [stories]

International Women's Day 2018 #Empowered [news]

Milli by Jakub Koziel [stories]

Anna May for HEROINE Magazine [stories]

Marina by Lucas Suchorab [stories]

Maxim x Bare Fine Jewellery [stories]

Marina by Ashton Hugh [stories]

Kiana by Andras Bartok [stories]

Lizaveta for Forte Lookbook [stories]

Marina by Jakub Koziel [stories]

Kiana for GLAMOUR South Africa [stories]

Marina by Luc Coiffait [stories]

Five Things You Need To Know About Paula Knorr AW18 ~ Hunger TV [news]

Lou for Who What Wear UK ~ "What's Wasting Your Wardrobe's Time, According to a 59-Year-Old Fashion Guru" [news]

Linden Staub x Paula Knorr AW18 #Exclusive #LFW [stories]

Ellie by Lucas Suchorab [stories]

"Beauty and the Ugly Truth" - Boston Globe [news]

Linden Staub
3rd Floor 29 Charlotte Rd
EC2A 3PF London
United Kingdom

+44 (0)20 3871 0902


Linden Staub — 100% Mother Agency

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